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Pond Weeds: Control, Herbicides & Identification Guide

by Joe Cadieux on August 20, 2025

(invasive.org)

If your peaceful backyard pond has turned into a tangled mess of green growth, you’re not alone. I’ve helped hundreds of U.S. pond owners who felt frustrated watching their once-clear water get swallowed by aggressive aquatic plants. From disappearing and stunted fish to clogged pumps and unpleasant odors, pond weeds can quickly spiral into a full-blown problem.

But here’s the good news...

With the right identification and control strategy, your pond can thrive again. Whether you’re battling duckweed, hydrilla, or the ever-persistent Eurasian Watermilfoil, this guide will walk you through what you need to know—based on what’s worked for my clients.

So, let’s dive in.

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What Exactly Are Pond Weeds, and Why Should You Care?

As a pond specialist, I’ve seen how fast pond weeds can turn from harmless to harmful. These are aquatic plants that live in, on, or around your pond. Some, like native submerged weeds, support fish and water quality. Others, especially invasive pond weeds, grow uncontrollably, choke out native species, and destroy the balance of your ecosystem.

Still reading? Good, because this is where things get interesting.

These plants come in three main types. Submerged pond weeds grow completely underwater and often go unnoticed until they form thick underwater jungles. Floating weeds sit on the surface and can cover entire ponds in green mats. Emergent weeds grow from the bottom and break through the water’s surface, often lining your shoreline like an uninvited hedge.

Each type requires a unique approach. That’s why…


Identification Is Everything (Don’t Skip This Step)

Misidentifying pond weeds is the #1 mistake I see pond owners make.

Let’s say you’re looking at a patch of green. Is it the native and manageable American pond weed, or is it the invasive hydrilla? Getting it wrong can waste time and money—or worse, make the infestation worse.

Here’s what to look for and some resources that will help you ID the plants living in your pond or lake. Below are just a few of the many possible plants that can grow in your pond. Please reach out to us (sales@midwestponds.com) with pictures and descriptions, so you can be sure of your identification and have a solid plan moving forward.

American pond weed has long stems with oval, floating leaves. It’s common across U.S. ponds and useful in moderation. But when it grows dense, it clogs water flow.

Potamageton nodosus is a native pondweed and can grow just about anywhere in the US and Canada.  Its presence is most dense in the midwestern states and central provinces, but it can (and does) grow in a wide variety of aquatic environments and conditions. 

American Pondweed (American PW) has two types of leaves, submerged and floating. Two-leaf forms are a cool feature of some pondweeds that adds to their ability to grow just about anywhere.  This dual growth form not only makes American PW adaptable, but also a pain in the rear to control. 

American PW is most commonly misidentified as Illinois Pondweed, which is understandable as they look a lot alike. 

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American Pondweed is normally controlled through physical removal and/or chemical control. 

Duckweed, on the other hand, is a free-floating plant that forms dense surface mats, blocking light and reducing oxygen. It’s a red flag for high nutrient levels.

Duckweed and watermeal (its often present cousin) are two of the smallest culprits of pond angst (but largest offenders)—tiny green specks that multiply fast. These native aquatic plants show up in old ponds that have a heavy nutrient load. Control is normally achieved through a combination of pond aeration and chemical control.

(gobotany.nativeplants.org)(ar.inspiredpencil.com)

 

For an in-depth discussion on duckweed pros and cons as well as control methods, please read:

Do Ducks Eat Duckweed in Ponds? A Practical Guide to Duckweed: Benefits / Downsides and Management


Then there’s hydrilla—one of the worst invasive pond weeds. It forms thick, underwater mats, spreads quickly, and can clog water systems and outcompete everything else.

Hydrilla

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Curly-leaf Pondweed

Eurasian Watermilfoil

You’re probably wondering: “How do I tell the difference?”

 That’s where visual aids and consultation help. I recommend snapping clear photos and comparing them to verified images of pond weeds or using a professional, like me, to help you out. Send me a few snapshots of your pond, we’ll get those plants ID-ed and get you a plan for control…


Now Let’s Talk Pond Weed Control

Once you’ve identified the enemy, it’s time for action. There are three main ways I help clients manage pond weeds—and the best results usually come from combining them.

First is mechanical removal. Using tools like pond weed cutters, you can slice through and rake out weeds. It works best for floating or emergent weeds in small areas, but it’s a temporary fix.

Next is chemical control. Selective pond weed herbicides like diquat (for fast results) or fluridone (for long-term control) are EPA-approved and effective—if used correctly. I can’t stress this enough: read the label, check your state regulations, and apply at the right time in the plant's growth cycle. Please consult a pond pro before you go this route. We can help you save time and money in the long run.  No need to guess, get the products and dosages that will help your pond without damaging your water quality or harming your fish. 

Every pond is different, and every pond needs a custom solution to achieve ecological and vegetative bliss.  There is no cookie-cutter solution for pond management. Consult with us to find the tools, strategies, and products you need to make your pond the type of resource you can show off for years to come.

The third method is biological control. Grass carp can eat submerged weeds like hydrilla and coontail. But don’t just dump them in—stocking rates and permits vary by state.

This is what I tell clients: “Control is great—but prevention is better.”


Stop the Problem Before It Starts

Even the best herbicide won’t help if your pond is constantly fed by fertilizer runoff or suffers from poor circulation. That’s why I emphasize prevention as the foundation of any pond management plan.

Start by reducing nutrient runoff. Install vegetative buffers around your pond. Limit fertilizer use nearby.

Then add aeration. It’s one of the simplest ways to discourage algae and excessive weed growth. Aeration improves oxygen, promotes beneficial bacteria, and reduces the ideal conditions for weed outbreaks.

And finally—inspect regularly. Most weed problems start small. Catch them early, and you’ll avoid costly, time-consuming cleanups later.

Here's What to Do Next

Still unsure which weeds you’re dealing with? Want help choosing the safest and most effective herbicide?

That’s exactly what I help pond owners with every day.

Check out our full guides on identifying pond weeds, invasive pond weeds, pond weed herbicides, pond weed cutters, and types of pond weed to get expert answers backed by real-world experience.

Don’t let weeds take over. Take control now.

 

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