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If you’ve got a dock or boat/boat lift in the water over winter, you already know how destructive ice can be. It can push pilings up, crack wood, and even damage entire dock systems. A Kasco De-icer helps by pulling up warmer water from below and moving it across the surface so ice can’t form. Here’s how to set one up the right way. Save money in repairs and removal/storage fees with an easy-to-use deicer from Kasco.
These units don’t melt ice like a heater. Instead, they circulate water. The deeper water in your lake or river usually stays “warmer" in the winter. By bringing that water up, the surface stays open. That protects docks and boats, and as a bonus, adds oxygen for fish and other aquatic life. The hole that is created allows all kinds of gas exchange in the lake or pond. Bad gases out, good gases in…
Where you place the de-icer matters more than anything.
Dock ends: Hanging it near the end of your dock keeps ice from pressing against pilings. This also has the added benefit of being the deepest water available.
The depth of the water is the most significant defining metric for dock deicing
Great Depth (>4ft) single ½ hp units will clear large areas under “normal” winter conditions
Shallow Depth (<3ft): Larger hp - ¾ hp and 1 hp or multiple units may be necessary to keep the ice away from your pilings.
Kasco deicers are very versatile. How and where you choose to install the units can significantly affect how much ice the unit(s) will clear.
Center of slips/boat lifts: If you’ve got boats tied inside slips, a unit in the middle helps stop ice from “lifting” the pilings. Simply suspend your dock deicer between the lifts or under your boat using the supplied ropes.
Big setups: A single unit won’t cover a large marina or several long docks. In that case, you’ll need more than one.
How many deicers will you need? Well, that depends…
How deep is the water – greater water depth needs less HP or total units
How big/long is your dock? Very long docks will require multiple deicers to keep ice away.
You can hang it with the provided ropes, a dock mount, or a horizontal float.
Ropes are quick and flexible, but the flow goes mostly straight up. This creates a circular hole in the ice. This is great for boat slips, large tees or other lakeshore structures.
A dock mount is sturdier and lets you angle the unit, which is handy if you need to push water in a certain direction. This is useful for long dock sections. This method is also easy to adjust if conditions change at your lakeshore.
Use the float when you do not have a sturdy structure to secure the deicer unit, or to create current away from your dock during ice out. Deflect small icebergs/sheets from colliding with your dock in early spring.
Drop it about 4 to 6 feet deep (ideally), but sufficient in as little as 2 feet of water. In really cold areas, you might want it a bit deeper to grab warmer water. Keep it at least a foot off the bottom so it doesn’t suck in mud or weeds.
Every shoreline is different. If there’s a natural current, set the de-icer so it works with that flow. You’ll get more open water without using extra power. If you’re in tidal water, tie it so it rises and falls with the tide, or adjust the mount so it always sits at the proper depth. Never run your deicer above the water line.
Plug it into a GFCI outlet for safety. Many owners add a thermostat controller or thermostat & timer Controller so the de-icer only runs when temperatures drop. That saves on electric costs while still keeping your dock safe. These controllers let you curate the size and shape of the hole you are creating in the ice. Conditions change during the winter, monitor your project so you don't expand the hole too big and bother the neighbors/ice fishermen.
Check now and then to make sure weeds or debris aren’t tangled around the prop.
Keep an eye on the sacrificial anode and propeller, and swap them out when they are worn or broken.
Test your GFCI outlet monthly.
At the end of winter, rinse off any buildup and store the unit upside down in a dry place. Storing the unit this way keeps the seals lubricated and ready for re-deployment next winter.
Remove any offending mussels and limescale. Too much scale buildup can lead to poor heat transfer and limit the unit’s service life.
One unit covers a small dock; big docks may need two or more.
Don’t rest the unit on the bottom.
Angle it to push water where ice is most likely to build up.
Use a thermostat to cut down on energy costs.
Installing a Kasco De-icer isn’t complicated. The main things are choosing the right spot, setting the right depth, and keeping it clean through the season. Done right, it’ll save you from costly dock repairs and give you one less thing to worry about when the water freezes.
Four to six feet works for most spots. Go a bit deeper in very cold water. If you have very shallow water, multiple units may be necessary.
If your dock is small, yes. Bigger docks or marinas usually need multiple units. Please contact us for our expert recommendations.
Ropes are quick; mounts give you more control over the angle.
Not always. Most folks keep it on when temps drop. A thermostat makes it easier.
Tie it so it moves with the tide or set the mount to handle changing depths.
If you keep it clean, check the anode, and store it right, you’ll get many winters out of it.
