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If you live on the water in the northern reaches of our great nation, you already know how damaging ice can be to docks, boats, and shoreline structures. An Ice Eater is one of the most effective tools for keeping water open in the winter. The Ice Eater is versatile and practical—these units will save you money AND protect your shoreline structures.
The good news is they’re simple to set up, and you can do it yourself in just a few steps.
Find your new Ice Eater here: 115V Ice Eater | 230V Ice Eater
Take the Ice Eater out of the box and give it a quick check. Look for any cracks, dents, or damage from shipping. Most models come ready to use right away. Check the cord for nicks or cuts as well.
This step is determined by the shape and length of your dock or boat, and by the water depth.
You’ve got a few options depending on your setup:
Ropes (supplied): Hang it under your dock or pier.
You can choose several different orientations for your rope-slung ice eater. Use the holes on the top of the shroud to move the shackle to create slightly more pitch to your ice eater.
Moving the shackle will change the shape and size of the hole you are creating in the ice. (Creates an oval opening instead of a circular hole) This is great for docks or longer boats.
Dock Mount: Fix it to the deck or a post, or a piling if you want a permanent spot.
This orientation is good for long docks where a long, narrow hole shape is the best option
Stand: Good for shallow water where hanging isn’t possible.
When you do not have a post or pipe to secure your Ice Eater, the Shallow Water Stand is a good option.
Great for any shallow water application: wildlife ponds, waterfowl hunting, shallow lagoons, and channels
Hang the Ice Eater two to three feet below the surface. Keep it at least a foot above the bottom so it doesn’t pull in mud or weeds.
Hang it straight down if you want a round opening in the ice.
Tilt it if you need to push water out in one direction. Use the holes around the top of the shroud to adjust the Ice Eater's pitch.
If using a duck mount, set the upward angle to 45 degrees and rotate the post to point the unit in the desired direction.
Plug it into a grounded GFCI outlet. Make sure you’re using the correct voltage for your model. If you need an extension cord, use a heavy-duty outdoor one rated for the distance.
Further curtail your deicing project costs with a thermostat controller and/or timer. Most applications do not need a 24-hour operation to keep an appropriately sized hole open. Keep costs down and avoid bothering the neighbors with a timer or temp switch.
Once it’s running, you should see open water forming around your dock. If the hole is too small or off-center, adjust the angle or depth until it clears the area you want.
PRO TIP: Conditions change throughout the winter. The setting and position of your initial setup may not be adequate as it gets colder (or warmer). Monitor your Ice Eater and adjust your unit as needed. It is up to you to control the size and shape of the hole you are creating in the ice.
Check it now and then to make sure nothing’s wrapped around the prop.
Look at the anode during the season and replace it if it’s worn down. Same for the Propeller - a new prop every year or 2 is usually a good idea.
Rinse off buildup at the end of the season.
When winter’s over, store the unit upside down in a dry place.
This keeps the seal lubricated and ready for next year.
About two to three feet below the surface, with at least a foot of clearance above the lake bottom.
For most home docks, yes. Bigger marinas often use more than one unit. Give us a call if you think you need more than one; we’ll help you get the unit(s) that are best suited to your project.
833-779-2837 - Midwestponds.com
Most people keep it on during freezing weather. You can also use a thermostat or timer to save power.
Use a stand or dock mount to angle it so it doesn't hit the bottom.
If you take care of it and store it properly, you’ll get many seasons out of it.
